How to use a camping tarp as a tent footprint

Aussie campers usually carry a tarp for shade or a quick awning over the camp kitchen. That same piece of fabric can pull double duty as a groundsheet under your tent, saving the cost of a separate footprint and cutting pack weight. Bushwalkers in the Blue Mountains and four-wheel-drivers tackling the Old Telegraph Track have used the trick for years.

Australian bush is rough on tent floors. Spinifex in the Red Centre, sharp granite in the Grampians, gritty sand on the Cape to Cape Track and boggy mud in Tassie's button grass can shred a thin floor in a season. A tarp underneath takes the abuse instead.

Branded footprints add roughly a hundred dollars to your kit, and the pre-cut shape rarely matches the real footprint of your tent. A flat sheet of heavy fabric cut to your floor plan works better, costs less and earns its keep around camp.

This guide covers sizing, materials, setup and care. By the end you will know whether your existing tarp can do the job or whether you need a fresh one.

Why a tarp makes sense as a tent footprint

A tent footprint protects the floor from abrasion, punctures and moisture. A 200-300 denier nylon or polyester tarp does the same job, usually with more durability than the factory sheet that ships with most tents.

Tent floors are typically 30-40 denier ripstop with a waterproof coating, and that coating wears out faster than the fabric. Sliding a tent over granite slabs at Girraween or shell-grit beaches along the Ningaloo coast eats through it in a season. A tarp underneath spreads the load and adds years to the tent's life.

Choosing the right tarp size and material

Measure the floor at its longest and widest, including vestibules if you want full coverage. Single-person tents sit around 210 by 110 centimetres; family dome tents run 240 by 240 or larger. Cut the tarp slightly bigger so the edges don't sit under the seams.

Material matters more than brand. A 200D oxford nylon with PU coating balances weight and toughness. Heavier 300D poly tarps are bombproof for car camping but weigh a kilo or more, while cheap blue tarps from the hardware shop flap noisily and break down in UV after one arvo at a Queensland beach camp.

Look for reinforced eyelets or loops in the corners and along the edges. These let you peg the tarp out before pitching the tent, which keeps the fabric taut and stops puddles forming in heavy rain.

Prepping the site and laying the tarp

Clear the campsite before you unroll anything. Pick up sticks, sharp stones and the cow patties you find in the high country around Mount Hotham. A quick sweep saves tent floor damage later.

Lay the tarp flat with the coated or smoother side up, folding or rolling edges under if oversized rather than trimming so you don't compromise the waterproof layer. Peg the corners first, then the mid-points, keeping the tarp drum-tight. A loose tarp pools water in a downpour and turns into a slip-and-slide at night. Use longer pegs in soft soil.

Comparing tarps, footprints and plastic sheeting

A tarp costs about the same as a branded footprint but you can also pitch it as an awning, kitchen shelter, windbreak or groundsheet. Builder's plastic is cheap and light but tears the moment you drag a tent over a sharp stick, which happens constantly in the Warrumbungles.

Adapting to Australian weather and terrain

Heat and UV are the silent killers of tarps in this country. A tarp left on the ute's dash or spread out for the arvo breaks down in months rather than years, so store it rolled and in the shade.

Heavy rain along the east coast and in the tropics turns any low spot into a bathtub. Pitch with a slight slope, dig a small channel around the perimeter, and shake out blowflies and mozzies at morning smoko. On the Overland Track in Tasmania you often set up on a built-up gravel pad for exactly this reason.

Troubleshooting common problems

Tarp too big: fold and secure the excess under the tent rather than trimming. Trimming frays the edges and removes the factory seam tape that keeps water out.

Tarp too small: extend it with a second tarp gaffer-taped along the seam, or accept that the vestibule sits on bare ground. Most vestibule floors are tougher than the inner floor anyway.

Condensation underneath: a tarp that is waterproof on both sides traps moisture. Use a breathable option, or place a thin mesh between the tarp and the tent floor to allow airflow.

Noisy in wind: a flapping tarp will drive you spare. Double-check peg tension, swap to longer pegs in soft soil, and weigh the corners down with rocks if you are car camping.

Packing and caring for your tarp

Always dry the tarp before packing. Mould smell stays in your pack for the rest of the trip, so hang a wet tarp on a tree at lunch and again at camp.

Keep a small repair kit in your pack: seam sealer, a 10 centimetre square of fabric and a needle with strong thread. Patching a hole takes two minutes. When the tarp finally gives up the ghost, repurpose it as pannier liners, a picnic blanket or a dust cover for the trailer across the Hay Plain.

A good tarp earns its place on every Australian camping list. It shelters the swag, shades the esky and protects your tent floor without the price tag of a branded footprint. If your old tarp is past its use-by date, replace it with something tougher from the Fribas outdoor store before the next long weekend.